Outside, leaves are darkening into rich ambers and luscious burgundies, however, inside, diners at the Garden State Plaza can still find a constant Californian oasis despite the cycle of seasons. Proving that malls do not have to feature the ubiquitous gourmet wasteland of Burger King and Panda Express, Napa Valley Grille transcends the norm of typical mall cuisine. It is a moderately upscale lunch location for mall workers and a dinner spot for diners looking for New York City quality without the atmospheric prices. A secret treasure of the Garden State Plaza, Napa Valley Grille is a great way to find refuge from the hustle and bustle of Bergen County lifestyle.

At lunch, the scene is fast paced business associates nourishing themselves before returning to work, however, the late afternoon attracts tired mall-goers, many slumped over the wooden bar eating the restaurants innovative “Happy Hour” Menu. In the evening, the atmosphere is subdued, with lit candles, cozily dimmed lighting, and hushed romantic whispers. Despite the non-stop mall bustle outside, the dining room is pleasant and appealing. While the mall surroundings are pedestrian, the restaurant is tastefully outfitted with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, open stone archways, vineyard murals, antique wood cabinets, and wire-encased wine displays on the walls to provide diners with a welcoming feeling. Juxtaposed with the dim dining room, the bright open kitchen steals the spotlight, as does the food.

Initially, I mistook the menu for a grocery list, as there were more than five components to each menu item. Aware that Californian cuisine prides itself on integrating a few seasonal ingredients into a harmonious dish, I was anxious to see if so many distinct ingredients could coalesce into a great meal. So, I set out to explore dishes that highlighted the Napa Valley harvest mentality. Pan seared duck breast cooked to a perfect medium rare, accompanied by tart local Granny Smith apples, Savoy cabbage, maple roasted squash, and a crispy duck leg was the epitome of the fall harvest. A salad of peppery arugula and bitter vibrant radicchio was paired with caramelized Anjou pears, spiced pecans, and pear vinaigrette, an appropriate tribute to the autumn’s market pickings. Hickory-smoked chicken with a hearty Cremini mushroom ragu and topped with a mound of perfectly seasoned barely wilted spinach is a picturesque expression of Napa Valley’s adeptness at conforming cuisine to suit the season.

While the menu is a more conventional approach to modern American cuisine, the weekly pre-fixe specials, $39.95 for a three course meal, are both highly ambitious and seasonal. The first course highlighted the ideal relationship of blue cheese and pears in a warm tart, accompanied by baby greens gently tossed with walnut vinaigrette. A black trumpet mushroom crusted tilapia filet was set atop a rich and creamy pumpkin risotto and lacquered with pumpkin oil. The tilapia’s delicate, succulent white flesh was enhanced by the woody mushroom’s earthiness. One dessert choice for the pre-fixe meal was a mini pumpkin tart with chocolate crust, cranberry spice bar, orange reduction and homemade vanilla ice cream. A trio of seasonal sorbets with fresh fruit is a lighter way to end the meal. Such seasonal menu choices reflect how Executive Chef Jack Mistretta understands and celebrates the philosophy of California cooking.